General
Roses range from compact shrubs to climbers and groundcovers. Many modern roses bloom repeatedly, while species and historic roses often flower once but set nutritious hips. In Sweden, the hardiest types (e.g., Rosa rugosa and many species roses) handle zone 7–8 with minimal protection; more tender hybrid teas and floribundas suit milder zones. Aim for sun, air movement, and consistent moisture. Good hygiene and resistant cultivars are the most sustainable way to reduce black spot, mildew, and rust.
Light
Full sun (6–8+ hours). In hot sites, light afternoon shade helps reduce stress and petal scorch.
Soil type
Deep, well-drained loam enriched with compost; good structure with steady moisture. Avoid waterlogging.
Water requirement
Moderate. Water deeply 1–2 times weekly in dry periods; keep foliage dry to limit black spot.
Nutrient requirement
Moderate to high. Prefer balanced, organic feeds with extra potassium and magnesium.
Precultivation
Roses are most often planted as grafted or own-root plants. Seed raising is uncommon but possible: sow after 8–12 weeks of cold stratification at 1–5°C, then germinate at 18–22°C. Take semi-ripe cuttings mid–late summer under high humidity; bottom heat improves strike. For grafted plants, buy certified stock to avoid viral issues.
Planting
Plant bare-root roses in early spring when soil is workable (air ≥5°C) or container roses from spring to early autumn. Dig a wide hole, loosen sides, and mix in 2–3 buckets of compost plus a handful of rock minerals (e.g., rock dust). Set graft union 3–5 cm below soil surface in cold regions to protect it. Water in well and mulch 5–8 cm with composted bark or leaves, keeping mulch off canes.
Pruning
Timing depends on group. Repeat-flowering shrub/hybrid tea/floribunda: hard prune in early spring when forsythia blooms—remove dead, diseased, crossing canes; reduce main canes by 1/3–1/2 and head back to an outward-facing bud. Summer deadhead to encourage more blooms (or stop deadheading in late summer if you want hips). Once-blooming species/historic roses: prune lightly right after flowering; avoid hard spring pruning.
Maintenance
Feed organically in early spring and again after first flush (do not fertilize late summer). Keep 5–8 cm mulch year-round to stabilize moisture and suppress weeds. Water at the base in the morning. Space plants for airflow. Remove fallen leaves in autumn to reduce disease carryover. In cold zones, mound compost/leafmold 10–20 cm over the crown after the first hard frost and pull it back in spring. Train climbers horizontally to stimulate flowering laterals.
Harvest
Cut flowers in the cool of morning when buds are just opening; recut stems under water. For hips, leave flowers un-deadheaded from late summer and harvest firm, colored hips in Sept–Oct for teas, syrups, and jams. Petals from fragrant, unsprayed roses (e.g., damask) can be picked for culinary use just as they open.
Common issues
Black spot and rust: improve airflow, water at soil level, remove infected leaves, use resistant cultivars; apply sulfur or bicarbonate sprays preventively if needed. Powdery mildew: avoid drought stress and excess nitrogen; prune for openness. Aphids and thrips: encourage beneficials (ladybirds, lacewings), wash off with water, use soft soap or neem if necessary. Winter dieback: protect graft, avoid late nitrogen, and delay spring pruning until hard frosts have passed.
Pollination
Insect-pollinated; most varieties are self-fertile. Open, single-flowered types attract many pollinators.
Companion plants
Lavender (Lavandula), catmint (Nepeta), alliums/garlic, sage (Salvia), marigold (Tagetes), hardy geraniums (Geranium), yarrow (Achillea).
Incompatible plants
Avoid competition from thirsty, shallow-rooted trees (birch, spruce). Do not crowd with mildew-prone plants or plant new roses exactly where old roses grew without soil renewal (rose replant disease).
