General
Redcurrants are hardy berry bushes grown for their translucent, tart clusters that ripen in mid to late summer. They are long-lived (10–15+ years) and reliable in cool climates. Fruit is borne mainly on spurs on 2–3-year-old wood, so a steady replacement of old shoots keeps crops consistent. Choose cultivars matched to your season and use: early ‘Jonkheer van Tets’, mid ‘Rovada’ with long strings, or cold-hardy ‘Red Lake’. Plants prefer a cool root zone, even moisture, and good airflow to limit mildew.
Light
Full sun to light shade; best fruit size and sweetness in 6–8 hours of sun.
Soil type
Moist, well-drained loam rich in organic matter; mulched to keep roots cool.
Water requirement
Moderate and consistent; 20–30 mm/week during flowering and fruit swell.
Nutrient requirement
Moderate. Annual compost or well-rotted manure; avoid high nitrogen to prevent leafy growth at the expense of fruit.
Precultivation
Commercial plants are typically bought container-grown or bare-root. If propagating: take hardwood cuttings 20–25 cm long from one-year shoots during dormancy (Nov–Feb). Insert two-thirds deep in a free-draining, sandy mix or an outdoor nursery bed; keep evenly moist. Softwood cuttings root readily in late spring. Seeds are rarely used; they require cold stratification and do not come true to type.
Planting
Plant in early spring once daytime temps are consistently above 5°C and soil is workable. Spacing: 1.2–1.5 m between bushes, 2–2.5 m between rows. Plant 3–5 cm deeper than the pot/bare-root crown to encourage new shoots. Water in thoroughly and mulch 5–8 cm with composted bark, straw, or leaf mold, keeping mulch a few cm off stems. Install bird net anchors early to simplify protection later.
Pruning
Aim to maintain 8–12 healthy main stems of mixed ages. Annually remove at the base the 3–4 oldest (dark, thick) stems to make room for new shoots. Shorten overly vigorous new laterals in summer to 4–6 leaves to promote spur formation. Redcurrants fruit best on 2–3-year wood; keep the center open for airflow. Prune in late winter (Feb–Mar) when severe frost has passed or lightly in the JAS period (Jul–Sep) after harvest.
Maintenance
Mulch yearly to conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and feed soil life. Water during dry spells, especially from flowering to harvest. Feed in early spring with 2–3 L of compost per bush or an organic berry fertilizer, then a light top-up after fruit set. Use windbreaks in exposed sites. Net plants before berries blush to prevent bird loss. Stake or ring-tie heavy-bearing branches to avoid breakage. In very cold, windy areas, a winter mulch and wind protection reduce bud kill.
Harvest
Pick on dry, cool mornings when trusses are fully colored and glossy—usually mid Jul to late Aug depending on cultivar and site. For jelly, slightly under-ripe berries give higher pectin and brighter flavor; for fresh eating, wait until berries are fully translucent and just soft. Harvest whole trusses to avoid crushing, then destem after chilling or from frozen for ease. Do not leave clusters on the bush too long or berries will shatter and attract birds. Chill promptly; keeps 1–2 weeks refrigerated or freeze in a single layer. Typical yield is 3–5 kg per mature bush.
Common issues
Birds: netting or fruit cages are essential. Currant sawfly (larvae) can defoliate rapidly—inspect undersides of leaves; hand-pick or use Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki early. Aphids (including blister aphid): encourage beneficials, wash off with water or use insecticidal soap; prune out heavily distorted growth. Big bud (currant gall mite): remove and destroy swollen buds in winter; replace badly affected bushes with resistant cultivars. American gooseberry powdery mildew: improve airflow, avoid excess nitrogen, prune out infected tips, apply sulfur or potassium bicarbonate as needed. Frosted blossom: choose sheltered site and avoid early-morning frost pockets.
Pollination
Self-fertile, but planting two or more cultivars improves yield and berry size.
Companion plants
Good: chives, garlic, calendula, nasturtium, borage, comfrey (as cut-and-drop mulch), white clover as living mulch. Attractors for beneficials such as dill and fennel nearby (not crowding the base).
Incompatible plants
Avoid close proximity to walnuts (juglone), overly competitive shallow-rooted groundcovers, and do not replant Ribes in the same spot immediately after old bushes (disease carryover). Separate from gooseberries/blackcurrants if gall mite or mildew is a recurring issue.
