General
Parsnip (Pastinaca sativa) is a cool-season root vegetable grown for its sweet, aromatic taproot that develops best in cool weather and after light frosts. It is hardy across all Swedish zones and can overwinter in the ground where soil is not frozen solid. Sow directly in the bed because parsnips dislike transplanting and older seed loses viability quickly—use fresh seed each year. A deep, stone-free, and evenly moist seedbed is crucial to avoid forked or stunted roots.
Light
Full sun to light partial shade; 6–8 hours of direct sun is ideal.
Soil type
Deep, loose, stone-free loam or sandy loam rich in organic matter but not freshly manured. Good drainage is essential.
Water requirement
Moderate and even moisture. Keep soil consistently moist during germination and root expansion; avoid waterlogging.
Nutrient requirement
Low to moderate. Too much nitrogen causes forked roots and lush tops with small roots.
Precultivation
Precultivation is generally not recommended. If you must start early (for very short seasons), use biodegradable modules with minimal root disturbance and transplant extremely carefully at the two-true-leaf stage. Better is to pre-chit seeds: place on moist paper at 10–15°C until they just sprout, then sow immediately in place. Keep in mind parsnip roots are easily deformed by any transplant shock.
Planting
Direct sow as soon as soil is workable and at least 5–7°C. Drill 1–2 cm deep in rows 30–40 cm apart. Sow a little thicker than needed (parsnip seed has low vigor), then thin in stages to 7–10 cm between plants once seedlings are 5–7 cm tall. Firm the soil lightly and keep evenly moist until emergence (which can take 2–4 weeks). Avoid fresh manure; incorporate well-matured compost in autumn prior to sowing.
Pruning
No pruning. Thin seedlings carefully to final spacing (7–10 cm) to prevent crowding and forked roots. Remove flowering stems in year one if any appear prematurely.
Maintenance
Mulch lightly after establishment to conserve moisture and suppress weeds, keeping mulch off the crown. Water deeply but infrequently to encourage deep rooting. Feed sparingly with a balanced, low-nitrogen fertilizer early in the season; avoid overfeeding. Keep beds free of stones and persistent weeds. Use insect mesh or a 60 cm high solid barrier to deter carrot fly. Hill soil slightly around crowns in late summer to prevent green shoulders.
Harvest
Begin lifting from early autumn when roots reach usable size; flavor improves after frost. In mild areas, leave roots in the ground and lift as needed through winter and early spring. Where deep frost is expected, mulch heavily or lift in late autumn and store in slightly moist sand at 0–4°C. Twist off foliage to reduce moisture loss. Choose the largest roots first to allow remaining plants more space.
Common issues
Carrot fly (Psila rosae): use fine mesh/fleece, sow later, rotate beds, and avoid bruising foliage when thinning. Parsnip canker (Itersonilia pastinacae): reduce by using well-drained soil, wide spacing, crop rotation, and avoiding fresh manure; remove affected tops promptly. Forked or hairy roots: caused by stones, compaction, or excess nitrogen. Slugs can damage seedlings—hand-pick, use traps, and maintain dry surfaces around rows. Poor germination: old or dry seed—use fresh seed and keep seedbed evenly moist.
Rotation schedule
Rotate on a 4-year cycle away from Apiaceae (carrot, dill, parsley, celery). Follow heavy feeders like brassicas with a composted bed, then grow parsnip as a lighter feeder. Do not return Apiaceae to the same bed for at least 3–4 years to reduce soil-borne disease and carrot fly buildup.
Pollination
Biennial; insect-pollinated umbels in the second year. Typically harvested as a root in the first year before flowering.
Companion plants
Onion, leek, garlic, chives, marigold (Tagetes), nasturtium, lettuce, peas. Aromatic alliums can help deter carrot fly.
Incompatible plants
Carrot and other Apiaceae (dill, parsley, celery) nearby can increase shared pest pressure; avoid following or preceding Apiaceae in the same bed.
