General
Mulberries are vigorous, fruiting shade trees producing sweet berries in shades of black (Morus nigra), white (M. alba, often pale to purple when ripe), and red (M. rubra). In Scandinavian climates, hardy white mulberry selections and hybrids perform best; black mulberry prefers the warmest coastal/microclimate sites. Trees are long-lived, fast-growing, and tolerant of wind and urban conditions. Fruit is excellent fresh, dried, or for jams and syrups. Choose grafted, known cultivars for predictable flavor, hardiness, and non-invasive behavior. Growth can be very strong; plan for mature size and fruit drop.
Light
Full sun (6–8+ hours) is best; tolerates light partial shade in warmer areas.
Soil type
Moist but well-drained, fertile loam or sandy loam. Mulberries tolerate a wide range of soils, including urban soils, provided drainage is good.
Water requirement
Medium. Keep evenly moist the first 2–3 years; once established, drought-tolerant but fruit size improves with regular moisture.
Nutrient requirement
Low to medium. Light spring feeding is sufficient on most soils; avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers that encourage excessive shoot growth.
Precultivation
Mulberries are usually established by planting grafted trees or hardwood cuttings. Seed raising is possible but slow and variable. For seed: cold-stratify 6–12 weeks (moist medium at 2–5°C), then sow indoors in spring at 20–24°C. Germination is irregular and can take several weeks. Pot on gently and grow on frost-free the first year in cold areas.
Planting
Plant container or bare-root trees in spring once daytime temperatures reliably exceed 10°C and soil is workable. Choose a sunny, sheltered spot with room for a 6–9 m canopy, away from paving. Dig a wide hole, loosen sides, and plant at the same depth as the nursery line (graft union 10–15 cm above soil). Backfill with native soil, water in well, and mulch 5–8 cm deep, keeping mulch off the trunk. Stake only if windy; remove supports within 1–2 years. Water weekly the first season in dry spells.
Pruning
Prune during dormancy (mid-winter) to shape a strong, open framework and remove dead, crossing, or crowded wood. Summer thinning (July) can check vigor and let in light, but avoid heavy cuts in spring due to sap bleed. For smaller gardens, train as an open-center or umbrella canopy at 1.8–2.2 m. Remove suckers below the graft. Fruiting occurs on current season’s shoots from older wood; maintain a balance of renewal shoots.
Maintenance
Mulberries are low-input once established. Mulch annually to conserve moisture and reduce weeds. Fertilize lightly in spring with compost or a balanced organic fertilizer if growth is weak; excessive nitrogen reduces fruit quality. Irrigate during flowering/fruit swell for larger berries. Netting may be needed to reduce bird losses. In cold regions, protect young trees from winter wind and rodent damage (trunk guards).
Harvest
Berries ripen over several weeks from mid-July to mid-September, depending on species and cultivar. Ripe fruit detaches easily with a gentle tug or by shaking branches over a sheet. Black mulberries (M. nigra) are intensely flavored and very soft; white mulberries vary widely in sweetness and color; red mulberries are aromatic. Use fresh within a day or refrigerate briefly; excellent for freezing, drying, jams, and syrups. Stains clothing and paving—plan harvest areas accordingly.
Common issues
Birds are the main competitor—use netting or accept a shared harvest. In cool summers, black mulberry may ripen unevenly. Generally pest- and disease-tolerant; occasional issues include mildew, canker, scale, and aphids—manage with hygiene, pruning for airflow, and beneficial insects. Avoid waterlogging to prevent root problems. Late frosts can nip early growth but trees usually recover.
Pollination
Mostly self-fertile, though some cultivars are dioecious or benefit from cross-pollination for heavier crops. Grafted named cultivars are recommended for reliable fruiting.
Companion plants
Clover, comfrey (dynamic accumulators for mulch), chives, oregano, and low groundcovers like wild strawberry to protect soil and catch drops.
Incompatible plants
Avoid planting directly above delicate understory beds—ripe berries drop and can stain. Do not plant close to paved areas or vehicles.
