General
Kiwi (Actinidia deliciosa / Actinidia chinensis) is a vigorous, long-lived climbing vine grown for aromatic, vitamin C–rich fruits. It needs a long, warm season to ripen reliably and typically performs best in very sheltered sites such as against a sun-warmed wall or in a greenhouse in cooler climates. Vines require very strong trellising (pergola, T- or Y-trellis) and regular pruning to balance vegetative vigor with fruiting wood. Provide shelter from drying winds and protect young shoots from late frosts, which can damage new growth and reduce the crop. For a hardier alternative, see hardy kiwi (Actinidia arguta).
Light
Full sun in cool climates; light afternoon shade in hot, reflective sites.
Soil type
Deep, moisture-retentive but free-draining loam rich in organic matter; slightly acidic.
Water requirement
Even moisture; about 25–40 mm per week during active growth and fruit swell. Mulch to maintain soil moisture.
Nutrient requirement
Medium to high. Annual compost plus light, split applications of balanced organic fertilizer.
Precultivation
Kiwi is usually propagated from grafted or rooted cuttings; seed is slow and variable. If raising from seed, cold-stratify, then sow in late winter at about 20–24°C on an acidic, free-draining mix. Keep evenly moist and provide bright light. Prick out after true leaves form. For cuttings, take semi-ripe cuttings in summer with bottom heat and high humidity. Expect several years to fruit, especially from seed.
Planting
Plant in spring once the risk of hard frost has passed and daytime temperatures reach about 10°C. Choose a sunny, wind-sheltered wall or a free-standing trellis. Space vines roughly 3–4 m apart along the row; allow wider spacing for large pergola systems. Dig a large hole and amend with well-rotted compost; avoid high-lime materials. Set the crown at soil level. Install a strong support system immediately. Water in thoroughly and mulch 5–8 cm deep, keeping mulch away from the stem. In frost-prone areas, protect young shoots with fleece during late spring cold snaps. Maintain a single trunk to wire height, then train two permanent cordons (T- or Y-shape).
Pruning
Dormant pruning shapes the framework: shorten last season’s laterals back to about 6–10 buds to renew fruiting wood; remove tangled, weak, or crossing shoots. Summer pruning (mid-summer to late summer) controls vigor: tip new laterals about 5–7 leaves beyond the last fruit and remove watershoots. Avoid heavy pruning in late winter/early spring when sap flow can cause strong bleeding.
Maintenance
Keep soil evenly moist, especially from budbreak through fruit fill. Mulch annually with composted bark, leaves, or wood chips to conserve moisture and feed soil life. Fertilize modestly in spring and early summer with balanced organic fertilizer and optional seaweed meal for micronutrients. Train and tie in new growth regularly. Protect from late frosts when shoots are tender. In marginal climates, protect the trunk in winter to reduce sunscald and rodent damage. Keep the base weed-free but avoid deep cultivation to protect shallow roots.
Harvest
Harvest in autumn when fruit is full-sized, seeds are fully black, and the flesh is still firm. Kiwifruit ripens off the vine: condition in cool storage (about 0–2°C) and then finish ripening at room temperature before eating. Protect fruit from frost, handle gently to avoid bruising, and store in breathable crates.
Common issues
Late frosts can kill young shoots; use fleece or other protection on vulnerable nights. Excess nitrogen causes rampant vegetative growth and poorer fruiting—favor balanced feeding. Water stress leads to leaf scorch and fruit drop; maintain mulch and even moisture. In cool, wet conditions, fungal leaf spots can appear—improve airflow with summer pruning and avoid overhead irrigation. Cats may be attracted to young vines; protect stems with guards if needed.
Pollination
Mostly dioecious: one male for about 5–8 female vines. Some self-fertile cultivars exist (e.g., 'Jenny') but often crop better with a compatible male nearby.
Companion plants
Clover or low legumes as living mulch, comfrey (chop-and-drop mulch), calendula, borage, garlic and chives, shallow-rooted groundcovers that do not compete strongly.
Incompatible plants
Aggressive climbing groundcovers that smother the base, and plants that require consistently alkaline soils (lavender and many Mediterranean herbs). Avoid intense root competition from large, water-hungry trees planted very close by.
