General
Hardy kiwi (Actinidia arguta and A. kolomikta) is a vigorous, long-lived climbing vine producing grape-sized, smooth-skinned kiwifruit that can be eaten whole. A. kolomikta is the hardiest (suitable to colder zones and ripens earlier), while A. arguta is slightly less hardy but often more vigorous and productive. Plants need strong support (pergola, arbor, or T‑bar trellis) and careful training. Spring shoots and flower buds can be damaged by late frost; choose a site with good air drainage and shelter from cold winds. Cats may be attracted to young vines (similar to catnip effect) and can damage stems—use guards if needed.
Light
Full sun to light shade; best fruiting in a warm, sheltered, sunny site.
Soil type
Deep, well-drained, humus-rich loam; evenly moist but not waterlogged. Mulch to keep roots cool.
Water requirement
Moderate and regular; keep evenly moist during establishment and fruit swell. Avoid waterlogging.
Nutrient requirement
Moderate; balanced organic feeding in spring, light top-up in early summer. Avoid heavy nitrogen late in season.
Precultivation
Hardy kiwi is best established from container-grown, named cultivars. Seed raising is slow and variable: seeds require cold stratification (6–10 weeks at 2–5°C) followed by warm germination (18–22°C); transplant after true leaves. If starting from seed, expect 3–5 years to first flowers and unknown sex. For practical gardening, buy one male and compatible female(s), or a self-fertile cultivar such as 'Issai' (still benefits from a male). Start indoor seedlings mid-winter if attempting seed, under bright light.
Planting
Plant in spring once sustained daytime temperatures are around 8–10°C and soil is workable. Space vines 3–4 m apart on a robust trellis. Plant at the same depth as the pot; loosen the rootball and spread roots. Mix compost into the backfill but avoid high-salt fertilizers. Water in thoroughly and mulch 5–8 cm, keeping mulch 5 cm away from the stem. Train a single leader to the top wire, then develop two cordons along the wire. Shelter from strong winds; avoid frost pockets. Maintain soil pH slightly acidic; add elemental sulfur if pH is high.
Pruning
Train to a cordon system. Winter (mid-winter) pruning removes crowded, dead, or misplaced wood and shortens last year’s laterals to 8–12 buds; avoid late-winter pruning when sap bleed is heavy. Summer pruning (after fruit set, mid-July to late August) shortens current-season laterals to 5–7 leaves beyond the last fruit and removes excessively vigorous water-shoots. Renew older fruiting spurs every 3–4 years. Keep the trunk clear and well-lit for airflow.
Maintenance
Water regularly in dry spells, especially years 1–3 and during fruit swell. Mulch annually with composted bark, leaves, or straw. Feed organically in spring with compost plus a balanced fertilizer (e.g., 5-5-5) or well-rotted manure; a light top-dress rich in potassium in early summer supports fruiting. Avoid late nitrogen after July to prevent soft growth and winter damage. Tie in new shoots and remove suckers from below graft. Protect young vines from cats and from late frosts with fleece. Monitor pH to prevent iron chlorosis in alkaline soils.
Harvest
Fruits ripen from early September to mid-October depending on cultivar and site. A. kolomikta ripens earlier; A. arguta later but often more abundantly. Harvest when berries soften slightly and detach easily; they should be sweet and aromatic. For uneven ripening, pick slightly firm and finish ripening indoors at room temperature. Store ripe fruit refrigerated for 1–2 weeks. Birds may peck fruit—use netting if needed.
Common issues
Late spring frost can kill flower buds—site selection and fleece protection help. Chlorosis (yellow leaves with green veins) indicates high pH or iron deficiency—acidify soil and apply chelated iron if needed. Root rot occurs in heavy, waterlogged soils—improve drainage and avoid overwatering. Poor fruit set usually results from lack of a compatible male, frost during bloom, or weak pollinator activity—add a male plant and attract pollinators. Excessive vegetative growth with little fruit can follow heavy nitrogen—reduce N and summer prune. Cats can chew young stems—use trunk guards or small fences.
Pollination
Mostly dioecious. One male plant can pollinate 5–8 females. Some cultivars (e.g., 'Issai') are self-fertile but crop better with a male.
Companion plants
Clover or low groundcovers for living mulch; comfrey for chop-and-drop; flowering herbs (thyme, oregano, borage) to attract pollinators; shallow-rooted shrubs that won’t compete heavily.
Incompatible plants
Black walnut and other juglone-producers; water-hungry trees (willow, poplar); avoid planting in turf that competes for moisture; keep distance from aggressive vines.
