General
Climbing beans are vining forms of Phaseolus vulgaris that need sturdy support. They produce heavily over a long period if regularly picked. In Swedish conditions they are frost-tender and best started after the last frost when soil is warm. Compared to bush beans they take a little longer to first harvest but yield more over time and use vertical space efficiently. Provide a strong trellis, netting, teepee or poles 2–2.5 m tall, well anchored against wind.
Light
Full sun (6–10 hours of direct light daily).
Soil type
Loose, well-drained loam enriched with mature compost; avoid cold, waterlogged soils.
Water requirement
Even moisture; ~20–25 mm/week. Mulch to reduce evaporation. Do not let soil dry out during flowering/pod set.
Nutrient requirement
Moderate. Beans fix nitrogen; use compost at planting and a light, low-nitrogen, potassium-rich feed at flowering.
Precultivation
For an early start in cooler areas, sow 2–3 seeds per 9–10 cm pot indoors or in a greenhouse 2–3 weeks before planting out. Use 16–24°C for germination and avoid waterlogging. Harden off for 7–10 days before transplanting. Do not start too early; leggy plants resent root disturbance and cold nights.
Planting
Direct sow after frost when daytime temps are >15°C and soil is >12°C. Sow 3 cm deep. Spacing: 20–25 cm between plants along rows or around poles (4–6 seeds per pole), with 60–90 cm between rows/teepees. Install supports before sowing/planting. Water in gently and mulch once soil is warm.
Pruning
Beans generally do not need pruning. In late summer, pinch out vine tips when they reach the top of the support to encourage pod ripening and easier harvesting. Remove any damaged or diseased growth promptly.
Maintenance
Keep soil evenly moist and mulched. Hoe shallowly to avoid root damage. Side-dress with compost or a low-N, K-rich organic fertilizer at bud/early flowering. Avoid high nitrogen which promotes leaves over pods. Train vines clockwise up the support. In windy sites, secure vines loosely with soft ties. Monitor for slugs on young plants and for spider mites in hot, dry weather; increase humidity and use gentle water sprays or soft soap if needed.
Harvest
Pick young, tender pods every 2–3 days once production starts to maintain yield; avoid letting pods get large and stringy. Harvest in the morning for best texture and use two hands (or snip) to avoid tearing vines. Pods are typically ready 8–10 weeks from sowing. For shelling types, allow pods to swell; for dry beans, let pods yellow and dry on the plant if weather is settled, then finish drying under cover. Cool harvested pods promptly and use within a few days.
Common issues
Cold shock causes yellowing and stalled growth—wait for warm conditions. Poor pod set can result from drought or excessive nitrogen—water evenly and feed modestly. Bean rust and anthracnose: practice 4-year rotation, avoid overhead watering, remove infected debris. Slugs/snails attack seedlings—use barriers, traps, and evening hand-picking. Aphids: encourage beneficials, use soapy water sprays. Wind damage: ensure sturdy supports.
Rotation schedule
Rotate on a 4-year cycle. Do not grow beans or other legumes (peas) in the same bed more than once every 4 years. Follow beans with heavy feeders (brassicas, corn) to benefit from improved soil nitrogen. Precede beans with light feeders or roots. Avoid following or preceding with alliums in the same season.
Pollination
Self-fertile flowers; insects improve set in cool or humid weather.
Companion plants
Sweet corn, squash/pumpkin (Three Sisters), carrots, beetroot, radish, dill, marigold, nasturtium, lettuce.
Incompatible plants
Onion, garlic, leek, shallot (alliums); fennel; avoid close to sunflowers that may shade/compete.
