General
Cherries include sweet (Prunus avium) for fresh eating and sour (Prunus cerasus) for cooking and preserves. In Sweden, sour cherries are hardier, while hardier sweet cherry cultivars on suitable rootstocks can succeed in milder zones. Trees prefer a warm, sheltered, sunny site with well-drained soil. Birds relish the fruit; plan for netting. Choose rootstock for size and hardiness (e.g., Gisela-series for semi-dwarfing; Colt for vigor). A single tree of a self-fertile cultivar may suffice; otherwise plant compatible pairs within 20–30 m.
Light
Full sun (6–8+ hours of direct light).
Soil type
Deep, well-drained loam with good organic matter; avoid waterlogging and compacted clay.
Water requirement
Moderate. Keep evenly moist during establishment and in dry spells; allow the topsoil to dry slightly between waterings.
Nutrient requirement
Moderate. Spring-applied balanced organic fertilizer or compost; avoid high nitrogen late in the season.
Precultivation
Cherries are typically purchased as grafted trees for reliable fruiting and known traits. Seed can be grown for rootstocks or ornament, but fruit quality and pollination traits are unpredictable. For seed: cold-stratify pits 8–12 weeks at 1–5°C (refrigerator or cold frame) from Nov–Jan, then sow in pots under protection. Outdoor autumn sowing is possible; protect from rodents. Germination is variable and may take one season.
Planting
Plant bare-root trees in early spring once the ground is workable and air temps consistently ≥5°C, or container trees from spring to early summer. Dig a wide hole; loosen sides; mix in mature compost if soil is poor, but avoid excessive amendment that can cause perched water. Set the graft union 5–10 cm above soil. Backfill, water in well, and mulch 5–8 cm thick, keeping mulch away from the trunk. Stake young trees in windy sites for 1–2 years. Spacing: 3–5 m for semi-dwarf, 5–6 m for vigorous types.
Pruning
Prune primarily in the JAS period (July–September) to reduce disease risk and gumming. In the first years, establish structure: a central leader with 3–5 well-spaced scaffold branches for sweet cherries; sour cherries can also be trained open-centered. Remove dead, diseased, crossing, and inward-growing wood. Limit large winter cuts; if necessary, make them late winter in dry weather. Maintain light and air in the canopy to prevent brown rot.
Maintenance
Mulch annually to conserve moisture and suppress weeds. Water deeply in dry spells, especially during fruit swell. Feed in early spring with compost or a balanced organic fertilizer; a light potassium boost after fruit set encourages quality. Avoid late nitrogen after midsummer. Paint lower trunks white or use guards to reduce sunscald and protect from rodents and deer. Net trees before fruits color to deter birds. Monitor for pests and diseases; remove mummified fruit and infected leaves promptly.
Harvest
Harvest in several picks as clusters color up: mid-summer for early cultivars and late summer for later ones. Taste-test; fruit should be fully colored, glossy and firm-ripe. Pick in dry weather with stems attached to extend storage and leave spurs intact. Cool immediately (0–2°C, high humidity) and use within 3–7 days. After rain, check for cracking and remove damaged fruit promptly. Sour cherries for processing can be picked without stems if used the same day.
Common issues
Birds: use tight-weave netting over a frame. Aphids and leaf curlers: spray with water or soft soap; encourage ladybirds and lacewings. Cherry fruit fly: hang yellow sticky traps; harvest promptly; remove windfalls. Brown rot (Monilinia): prune for airflow, avoid overhead irrigation near harvest, remove mummified fruit, thin clusters. Cherry leaf spot and canker: sanitation, balanced nutrition, prune in JAS, avoid big winter cuts. Gumming often indicates stress or infection—address underlying causes.
Pollination
Varies by variety. Many sweet cherries (Prunus avium) need a compatible pollinizer that blooms at the same time; some are self-fertile (e.g., ‘Stella’, ‘Lapins’). Most sour cherries (Prunus cerasus, e.g., ‘Morello’) are self-fertile.
Companion plants
Bee-attracting groundcovers (white clover, phacelia), aromatic herbs (chives, thyme), comfrey as a living mulch, flowering shrubs that support beneficial insects.
Incompatible plants
Avoid planting close to thirsty, shallow-rooted trees (birch, willow), or under dense conifers. Do not plant under black walnut. Avoid heavy feeder annuals right at the trunk zone.
