Apple

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Cross-pollination is usually required

Most apple cultivars are self-sterile and need pollen from a compatible variety flowering at the same time. Some triploid cultivars require two different fertile partners for reliable fruit set.

Choose the right rootstock

Rootstock determines tree size, vigor, cold tolerance, and how soon it bears fruit. Dwarfing rootstocks suit small gardens, while vigorous rootstocks are better for cold climates and poorer soils.

Keep the graft union above soil

When planting, the graft union must sit 10–15 cm above soil level. If buried, the scion can root and negate the benefits of the rootstock, leading to an overly large tree.

Pruning increases yield and fruit quality

Regular pruning improves light penetration and airflow, which promotes flower bud formation and healthy fruiting wood. Well-pruned trees produce larger, more consistent harvests and fewer diseases.

Light and airflow reduce disease

Apple trees need full sun and good air circulation to reduce apple scab and mildew. Avoid cramped planting and maintain an open canopy through pruning.

Keep grass away from the trunk

Grass competes strongly for water and nutrients and slows young tree establishment. Maintain a weed- and grass-free mulch ring under the canopy to improve growth and yield.

Avoid excessive nitrogen

Too much nitrogen promotes leafy growth at the expense of flowers and fruit and increases disease pressure. Fertilize lightly and avoid strong nitrogen after midsummer.

Overview

Size (cm): 400 cm width · 500 cm height
Zone: SE 1-7 · USDA 3-8
Comfort temperature: -5-30 C
Temperature limit: -35 C
Planting temperature: 5 C
Germination time (days): 21

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General

Apple trees are long-lived, cold-hardy fruit trees suited to a wide range of Swedish climates. Choose rootstock and cultivar for your site: dwarf (e.g., M26, B9) for small gardens and earlier bearing, semi-dwarf (MM106) for medium trees, and vigorous (A2/Antonovka) for cold, poorer soils and longer lifespan. Site in full sun with good air movement to reduce scab and mildew. Plant at least two compatible cultivars for reliable cropping unless you have pollinating neighbors or crabapples nearby. Protect the trunk from rodents and sunscald; maintain a mulch ring instead of lawn under the canopy.

Light

Full sun (at least 6–8 hours of direct light daily).

Soil type

Deep, well-drained loam enriched with organic matter; avoid waterlogged or very shallow soils.

Water requirement

Moderate; consistent moisture during establishment and from flowering through fruit swell. Mulch to reduce evaporation.

Nutrient requirement

Moderate; balanced NPK with emphasis on potassium and calcium for fruit quality.

Precultivation

Apples are usually bought as grafted trees. If propagating, graft dormant scion wood onto rootstocks late winter under protection; or stratify seed 8–12 weeks in moist medium at 1–5°C, then sow in late winter. Note that seed-grown trees are variable and mostly used for rootstocks or breeding.

Planting

Plant bare-root trees in early spring as soon as the soil is workable and air temps are consistently above ~5°C, or container trees any time during frost-free periods. Dig a wide hole no deeper than the root system; keep graft union 10–15 cm above soil. Backfill with native soil, water in thoroughly, and mulch 5–8 cm thick out to the dripline (keep mulch away from the trunk). Stake dwarfs for 2–3 years; water weekly during the first summer if rainfall is low.

Pruning

Form an open, well-lit canopy. In Sweden, main pruning is often done in the JAS period (July–September) to reduce disease risk and invigorate fruiting spurs; perform structural corrections in late winter/early spring while dormant if needed. Remove dead, diseased, damaged, and crossing branches. Maintain a central leader or modified leader on vigorous rootstocks; spur pruning for tip-bearing cultivars should be conservative. Renew fruiting wood gradually by thinning rather than heading.

Maintenance

Mulch annually with composted bark/wood chips. Fertilize modestly in spring with compost or an organic fruit fertilizer; avoid heavy nitrogen after midsummer. Irrigate during bloom and fruit swell, aiming for deep, infrequent watering. Thin fruits to one per cluster and ~10–15 cm apart to prevent biennial bearing and improve size. Monitor for pests; use mating disruption for codling moth where available, encourage beneficials, and remove mummified fruit and fallen leaves to reduce scab inoculum.

Harvest

Harvest in waves rather than all at once. Early cultivars ripen from late summer into early autumn for fresh eating; late/storage cultivars ripen from early to late autumn. Apples are ready when background color lightens, seeds turn brown, and the fruit detaches with a gentle twist-lift—avoid pulling. For storage, pick slightly firm before full tree-ripeness in the cool of the day, keep stems on, cool promptly to 1–3°C with high humidity, and sort out any damaged fruit for immediate use.

Common issues

Apple scab (Venturia inaequalis): choose resistant cultivars, prune for airflow, collect leaves. Powdery mildew: remove infected shoots. Canker: prune well below infection during dry weather. Codling moth: use traps, timely sanitation, bag fruit if practical. Aphids: encourage predators, use soap sprays if needed. Bitter pit: ensure balanced potassium and adequate calcium, avoid drought stress.

Pollination

Mostly self-incompatible; requires cross-pollination from a compatible cultivar that blooms at the same time. Some cultivars are triploid and need two fertile partners.

Companion plants

White clover, comfrey, chives, garlic, borage, calendula, yarrow, phacelia, nasturtium; diverse bee-friendly flowers and groundcovers.

Incompatible plants

Junipers (rust host), hawthorn and rowan nearby (can harbor pests/diseases shared with apple), black walnut (juglone), vigorous turf right up to the trunk.

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